Tuesday, October 31, 2006

internet cafes in the former USSR

are great. they are the only places where you can find all sorts of degenerates in a single room. Gamers, nerds, 12 year old kids watching the latest porn vids, and a shit ton of girls chatting with their potential "husbands" - most likely losers from new zealand, england, ohio, etc.

a friend of mine kept telling me that she had numerous suitors in australia, and a doctor in california. i cynically told her that the guy in australia was most likely a construction worker, and the doctor merely a supply guy at a local hospital. i felt like a dick saying that but it was probably true.

see, vis-a-vis most of the former soviet union that i've seen (moldova, ukraine, transnistria - a small little slice of heaven, i'll freely admit), internet cafes are still one of those escape zones where what is real in reality isn't. escapism at its finest.

i'll be honest. i like the former CCCP because what's usually buried well beneath the surface is all out on full display. the society of the spectacle is in full effect. it's like a jay-z video with a bunch of flatheads, dolled up girls, pot-bellied mafia types, clueless expats, patchouli-smelling peacecorps volunteers who cling to their pathetic social groupings, philosophical alcoholics, endless domestic disputes on the bus, heartwrenching romances, incredible poverty, the illogical indentured servitude that is the international aid community, political hypocrisy, etc. but then you find something great like this following story. this is totaly a feel good story that i can relate to. This isn't about politics. this is about a pure video game junkie who couldn't get enough. 48 hours is a lot, but who hasn't been on some kind of bender that they just didn't want to end.

evidently this kid had transnistria trying to find him. what a malchik. do you think it would be unethical as a scholar to freelance for the tiraspol times?

Search for missing boy ends; found after 2 days playing "Counter-Strike"

Following an intensive manhunt for a lost 12 year old, the boy was found Monday in Pridnestrovie. He had been spending two days in a cyber-cafe playing "Counter-Strike" non stop. Earlier, a police search was underway after his parents reported him missing.

By Jason Cooper, 31/Oct/2006

Hiding out in this cybercafe in Pridnestrovie, a 12 year old game player eluded a manhunt for two whole days


BENDER (Tiraspol Times) - For two days, a 12 year old Pridnestrovie native battled it out nonstop in the parallel universe of ''Kontrstrayk'', Russian for Counter-Strike, the world's most popular online action game and first-person shooter. While leading his team to victory after victory in the cyberspace, in the real world, the parents of Artem Shurygin were fighting a battle of their own: Frantically looking for their lost son.

In the streets of Tiraspol and Bender, the two largest cities of Pridnestrovie, 12 year old Artem's father and mother were growing increasingly desperate looking for their son who was nowhere to be found. Checking first with friends and classmates, and not finding him, they started touring the local hospitals and even checked several times with the morque. They also contacted two local radio stations, posted information on the Internet, and involved the PMR police in their missing person search.

On Sunday, photocopied "Missing"-posters could be seen on lampposts in Tiraspol and Bender, featuring Artem's photo and the phone number of his parents. This finally led to a call from someone who had spotted him in a local cyber-cafe, engrossed in a 48 hour long game of Counter-Strike.

" - Kids love to play, and everyone liked the way I played, so the game took control of me, and I just didn't want to quit," was the explanation given by the young gamer when he was picked up by police and brought home to his worried parents.

Artem Shurygin receives high grades in school, getting mostly 4's and 5's which are top grades as per Pridnestrovie's Russian-inspired grading scale.
" - My favorite class is Math, but school is too easy for me. Here, in the game, I get more of a challenge," stated Artem in an interview with New Region Press in Tiraspol, the capital of Pridnestovie.

Counter-Strike is a team-based first-person shooter computer game in which players join either the terrorist or counter-terrorist team, and combat the opposing team while fulfilling predetermined objectives. In 2006, statistics regularly shows over 200,000 players for Counter-Strike, making it the most widely played online first-person shooter game in the world. According to data from the content-delivery platform Steam, these players contribute to over 4.5 billion minutes of playing time each month.

Government rules to curb gaming mania

New government regulations introduced earlier this year aim to put the brakes on what the authorities see as a computer gaming craze. The rules restrict the hours where cyber cafes are open to underage hours, barring entrance past midnight and on school days.

Random spot-checks by local police are in place to make sure that the rules are enforced. In case of repeat violations, a cyber cafe can lose its business license and will be forced to shut its doors. Parents of underage users who commit infractions receive fines of 15 PMR Rubles (equivalent to USD $1.78 at the current exchange rate, see sidebar).

The level of commitment to computer gaming among the youth of Pridnestrovie is one of the features which often makes a lasting impression on foreign visitors. In 2005, a British newspaper, The Guardian, visited Pridnestrovie to report on the country's recent progress. What they found was a very European country not unlike many others. As the newspaper reported, Pridnestrovie today has "its own flag, crest, anthem, president, parliament, uniformed border guards, security service, police, courts, schools, university, constitution" and: "...the kids are playing western computer games: Tomb Raider, Tank Racer. The shops on 25 October Street include Adidas and a fast-food restaurant decorated with giant, blown-up photos of American skyscrapers. Up the road, there is a vast new sports complex built by the biggest local company, which is called Sheriff, a tribute to the wild west frontier marshals of the US. At the Hotel Timoty, the receptionist, Tania, is dressed in a stretchy white tracksuit, emblazoned Dolce e Gabbana."

Pridnestrovie, which is also known in English as Transnistria or Transdniester, declared independence in 1990 in the midst of the break-up of the former Soviet Union. Although still unrecognized internationally, it functions for all practical purposes as a separate and independent nation with its own government institutions, borders, a flag, its own money, tax authorities, passports, and an elected parliament which is in the hands of the country's leading opposition party. (With information from The Guardian)

Sunday, October 22, 2006

On the Political Lives of Dead Journalists

As I waded through my inbox this week I received a string of "gee Mike, what's wrong with Russia?" type emails and forwards from the requisite sources (Washington Post, NY Times, etc.) about the death of Anna Politkovskaya. Where do I begin?

It's all to easy to criticize Russia on many fronts. But I am consistently brought back to Freud's old joke about the borrowed kettle. (1) I never borrowed a kettle from you; (2) I returned it to you intact; (3) the kettle was already broken when I got it from you. Each answer confirms that which it explicitly seeks to deny: that i returned a broken kettle. What the hell am I talking about? OK, so the kettle joke is a strech, but the key quilting thread amongst these arguements and those given as reasons for Politkovskaya's murder (she was anti-Putin, writing about abuses in Chechnya, etc.). What's particularly interesting is the temporalization of Russia - the glorious pro-Western Yeltsin era versus the increasingly authoritarian (i dare say, in the requisite neocon babble) "fascist" Putin era.

We pick on Russia because we can. Because it's not an ideologically indoctrinated culture of subservience, because capitalism there is quite brutal and often not of the cushy, corporate board voting for stock options while shipping our shit south of the border, etc. I think my friend Kolya in Odessa put it best. I asked him a question about the Orange Revolution, and he started laughing. He said: "MMMMMIIIIKE ... Yushenko ... big pederast!" In russian, of course. But he has a point: at least in the post-Soviet world you know the spectacle exists, and for the most part aren't deluded by it. We are. Go rent "Control Room" or "Manufacturing Consent." But don't watch them and go join some liberal pow wow. Like putting a "Ithaca is not George's" sticker on your vegetable oil car or your hybrid compact. Get an original idea. Think beyond the useless liberal framework that structures discourse in this overeducated hamlet. See the murder of a Russian journalist for what it really is: something that happened in the context of a war and a country which you (this may be a stretch) DON'T REALLY UNDERSTAND.

Don't do a Wikipedia search and find out that she worked for the last "free" Russian newspaper, that she wrote a book on Chechnya that you will never read, don't read CJ Chivers' stories about the evil Russian presence in Chechnya and feel all gushy when you push your liberal lips all over the bloated face of the Soviet Union (er, i mean Russian Federation). This is probably where I should say that we need to understand the context in which these events happen, their place in the indigenous semiotic logic, how they relate materially to the particulars of Russian capitalism, etc. But I'm jaded. Read on if you dare. You may hate what Ames stands for, but at least he paints reality with the grey colors that it deserves.


Where Is America's Politkovskaya?


By Mark Ames ( editor@exile.ru )

The murder of Russian journalist Anna Politkovskaya was one of those horrible events which trigger the worst in everyone, when all the wrong lessons are drawn, and all the spite and savagery explode. Even by the 21st century's already sub-vile standards, her assassination managed to inspire an entirely new level of hysteria, opportunism and tactlessness so sphincter-twisting that it makes you wonder if it wouldn't just be better to hand the entire Judeo-Christian world over to the Chinese now, rather than waiting another agonizing 20 years. At least the Chinese have tact, for chrissakes.

On one side of the Global Toilet was President Putin, normally an impressive politician, but who, at critical times, cannot contain his own viciously raw vanity. By keeping silent for two days after her murder, and then finally speaking out only to minimize her importance, Putin came off looking like a regular asshole. Leaving aside for now the issue of whether or not Putin was "right" in minimizing Politkovskaya's importance in Russia -- technically he was largely "correct" -- what mattered was what his nasty reaction revealed about his character. Any skilled politician would have swallowed his petty grudges and embraced her corpse, squeezing out of it as much political capital as possible. This isn't rocket science stuff -- it's just cynical politicking 101, and it's the right thing to do. Why did Putin's normally adept bloodless skills fail him on this occasion? I think for the same reason that Bush fled from the battle scene on 9/11, snagglepussing at Mach-3 to a snakehole in Nebraska until the coast was long clear, rather than flying straight from Florida to DC and looking the part of the fearless hero. He couldn't help himself. Big, unexpected events reveal the smallness in our leaders.

Most Russians I know reacted somewhere between indifference and mild disgust at the murder. But if you read the Russian internet, you'd realize that Putin came off as a weepy liberal: a good part of the "active" community only wished that Politkovskaya had been killed far more slowly, much sooner, and that they could have perhaps been part of the hit team who did it. Nice, really fucking nice.

On the other side -- the side that matters far more to me -- was the West. Unlike Putin, the Western media wasted no time in seizing Politkovskaya's corpse for their own purposes, parading it around and milking it for every ounce it was worth.

What exactly was Anna Politkovskaya's bullet-riddled corpse worth to the West? No surprise here: A juicy opportunity to demonize Putin and Russia.

Immediately after her murder, Reuters showed how her death was going to be spun with the headline, "Outspoken Putin Critic Shot Dead In Moscow." The implication was obvious: Putin ordered it.

Articles noted that she was killed on Putin's birthday, implying that it was a gift to himself. On the eve of his visit to Germany to close a big energy contract. Can you imagine Putin actually ordering the hit on his birthday, just before meeting Merkel for a key energy summit? "Okay, here's the plan, Sechin. I want you to kill Politkovskaya. I know, it's true that her articles have almost no effect on our policies in Chechnya and are ignored by all but a small percentage of liberal Russians, but so what. Oo, she makes me so angry! Once she's out of the way, my grip on power will finally be secured. Mwah-hah-hah! But wait, that's not all. Oh no, I'm much more dastardly than that. See, I'm not asking for much for my birthday, Sechin. Forget the Bulgari watches that you guys give me every year. I want her corpse brought to me with a big red birthday bow tied around it. I want to kill her on my birthday, just before my big meeting in Germany. They'll understand. After all, they're Germans. You know--Nazis, just like me! Deal? Yeah? Oh, goodie! I'm so deliciously evil, even Stewie would envy me. Why, this is going to be the best birthday of my life! Happy birthday to me! Happy birthday to me!..."

But that was just the beginning. The notoriously Russophobic Fred Hiatt at the Washington Post published an editorial that more directly implicated Putin: "It is quite possible, without performing any detective work, to say what is ultimately responsible for these deaths: It is the climate of brutality that has flourished under Mr. Putin."

This is a cheap way of saying that Putin is responsible, but like most Russia-haters, they leave out some obvious contradictions. Such as, for example, is Putin also responsible for the hit on Paul Klebnikov, who was profoundly pro-Putin? And what about all the journalists murdered during Yeltsin's tenure? Did Hiatt or any of the others ever blame Yeltsin -- the one who truly introduced the brutality, corruption and lawlessness into Russia? No, of course not, because Yeltsin did The West's bidding. Crimes committed while being pro-American simply do not exist.

Anne Applebaum, one of the Post's resident neocons, went the extra sleazy mile when she got ahold of Politkovskaya's corpse. In her October 9th column, "A Moscow Murder Story," Applebaum simply lied about the circumstances of her murder, and quite consciously so, when she essentially blamed Klebnikov's inconvenient death, as well as other provincial journalists killed for investigating local corruption, on Putin. Interestingly, in her article she openly narrows her focus on "journalists killed after 2000" -- gee, how convenient. Because that means she wouldn't have to mention all the journalists killed during Yeltsin's term, since that would muddy up the good/evil picture that her entire thesis rests on.

Applebaum is a special case, one of those moral crusaders, the American Anna Politkovskaya, who has made a living courageously exposing state crimes committed by...get this...not her own country, oh heck no! Because her own country only does good! Nope, Anne Applebaum makes her living by sitting in the safety of Washington DC, and exposing crimes committed by a country on the other side of the globe! That country being Russia of course. Hey, give that woman a Pulitzer, will ya?! Hence her book Gulag, packed with all the affected moral outrage that you'd expect. Indeed, one thing that has always filled Applebaum with rage is wondering why Russians don't take her seriously (a question she poses as more abstract -- ie, why don't Russians care about the Gulags as much as Anne does?). Here's why: Can you imagine how much moral authority a right-wing Russian journalist's book about the American genocide of Indians would have in America? Answer: about as much as Anne's book has in Russia. None.

Yes, it's dangerous work to dedicate your life to exposing the horrors committed by a country that your husband hates. Applebaum's husband is Poland's right-wing Defense Minister Radoslaw Sikorski, who also serves in the neocon American Enterprise Institute, the same institute that essentially invented the current Iraq war. The current government that Sikorski serves in, by the way, includes the extreme right-wing party The League of Polish Families, leading to protests from Israel because of the party's open anti-Semitism and xenophobia, and its notorious skinhead youth group. But that's okay by Anne, because Poland likes America and is a member of the Coalition of the Willing. Meaning no hissy articles from Anne Applebaum about her husband's pals or Poland's repulsive history of Jewish slaughter. Nor will you read too many articles by Applebaum about her own country's atrocious crimes committed in Iraq, and the hundreds of thousands her government has killed.

No person could be as far from Politkovskaya as Anne Applebaum. Given all of Applebaum's influence and access, she only uses that power to demonize Russia and whitewash America's fascism. Politkovskaya, on the other hand, speaking from extreme weakness and danger, used what little influence she had to risk all for the victims of her own goverment's cruelty, fighting from within.

Easily the most absurd Politkovskaya article was by the notorious Brit hack Olga Craig, in her piece in the Sunday Telegraph titled "Cross Putin And Die." It begins with an obviously manufactured story of a terrified small-time journalist supposedly fleeing for his life from Putin's Russia -- the invented journalist is given a pseudonym, "Zakayev," he's apparently so scared... and from there, well, you can fill in the blanks yourself. His alleged crime is that he criticized the disgusting crackdown on ethnic Georgians--and yet, there was vicious open criticism of the crackdown as fascistic all over the Russian print and internet media. But supposedly, this guy had to flee for his life -- "Now 'Zakayev' is convinced that someone, most probably a hired hitman with links to the Kremlin, is already stalking his movements." It's pure cartoon bullshit, one of the worst made-up hack stories you'll read in your life.

But the knockout blow was yet to be delivered. Politkovskaya's corpse could not be buried before the Western press squeezed it for the biggest prize of all: Pure, total demonization. The "F" word. Yes, the Economist declared, "It is an over-used word, and a controversial one, especially in Russia. It is not there yet, but Russia sometimes seems to be heading towards fascism."

If Fascism means gas chambers, then all talk of it is utterly meaningless and empty--it's the most over-abused epithet, and simply by acknowledging that doesn't excuse the Economist of rank historial distortion. However, if "Fascism" means what I think they mean -- violence and lies and hate -- then America, which used a lie as a pretext to invade a country on the other side of the globe, completely leveled a city of 300,000, and killed half a million citizens, all the while violently suppressing the truth and anyone who tries to get it out -- is guilty as charged.

The West has used poor Anna Politkovskaya's corpse to do exactly what she fought against: whipping up national hatred, lying, and focusing on evils committed safely far away, rather than on the evils committed by your own country. The West has exploited her death with all of the crudity and cynicism of an Arab mob funeral...only at least the Arabs use their own people's corpses to demonize an enemy that actually kills them. Whereas in this case, the West stole another country's corpse, then paraded it at home in order to whip up hatred against the corpse's birthplace. It would be like the Palestinians slipping into Tel Aviv, grave-robbing Rabin's corpse after his murder, then parading it around Gaza City, ululating hate towards Israel for allowing the great peacemaker to get killed.

That's kind of how Russians reacted when they saw that the West crudely exploited Politkovskaya's murder. The West's crude reaction only increased Russia's crude counter-reaction...

If you ask me, what is most significant for us in the West about Anna Politkovskaya's death, and her courageous life (btw, a big "fuck you" to our nationalist readers who don't agree with this), is not so much what it says about Russia -- it doesn't say much new at all, to be honest, but instead is another chapter in an increasingly depressing story that started under Yeltsin.

Rather, what is significant about her death is this: Why doesn't America have an Anna Politkovskaya? Why don't we have someone as courageous as she was to tell the story of how we razed Fallujah to the ground Grozny-style? How we bombed to smithereens and ethnically cleansed a city of 300,000 people in retaliation for the deaths of four American contractors? Where is the American Anna Politkovskaya who will tell us about how we directly killed roughly 200,000 Iraqis, and indirectly are responsible for about half a million Iraq deaths since our invasion? Why isn't there a single American willing to risk almost certain death, the way Politkovskaya did, in the pursuit of truth and humanity?

One reason why is because they risk getting killed not only by Iraqi insurgents and Al Qaeda terrorists, but also by the highly efficient American forces. (Not that this stopped Politkovskaya, but it stops America's righteous Politkovskaya-bearers.) And even if they get the story out, it gets quashed by the mainstream press, you lose your job, and you get met by a hostile, even bloodthirsty public who doesn't want to hear about it.

Take the case of Yasser Salihee, an Iraqi correspondent for Knight Ridder. Salihee was shot by an American sniper with a bullet to his head on June 24, 2005. At the time, he was gathering material for an investigative piece about how the US was training death squads -- the very same death squads which are now responsible for the savage civil war that kicked into high gear this year.

Salihee was killed; the American sniper was cleared; and Knight Ridder washed its hands, declaring "there's no reason to think that the shooting had anything to do with his reporting work." Imagine an analogous situation in Chechnya, the hue and cry from the Applebaums -- it'd be as inversely loud as the silence over Salihee's death. At least even the Kremlin admits Politkovskaya was killed for her reporting.

Indeed Salihee is just one of a number of journalists killed in Iraq, by far the most dangerous place in the world for journalists. And it's not all the insurgents' fault either. Some more marginal journalists, from Robert Fisk to Dahr Jamail, have written about how US forces in Iraq target journalists for murder. But no one wants to hear that -- so these kinds of reports stay on the margins. Journalists were targeted and killed at Al Jazeera; at first, reports that the Americans targeted them were dismissed as "conspiracy theory" talk, but recently, admissions that Bush, Blair, and a former Blair minister all explored ways to bomb Al Jazeera during the war are finally raising questions. Well, not really. Should be raising questions, leading to impassioned editorials by the Post and Anne Applebaum. But they're not, because they're too busy demonizing Russia.

Giuliana Sgrena, the Italian journalist who was kidnapped last year in Iraq and freed by an Italian intelligence agent, was shot and wounded (the agent was killed) by US forces when she was returning to freedom. She insisted that US troops deliberately targeted her. A smear campaign in the US press -- labeling her a Communist and an anti-American with Stockholm Syndrome-- effectively nullified her story, but even pro-Bush Berlusconi was so incensed by the incident that he started to back away from Bush's war.

Italian TV later discovered evidence that US forces had used an illegal WMD, white phosphorus chemicals, during its destruction of Fallujah the year before. In spite of all the evidence, including burned corpses whose clothes were still intact, eyewitnesses, and even friendly Iraqi ministers who denounced it, the American media largely ignored it. Why the fuck did Italian TV, and not American TV, break this story? Where was Anne Applebaum on the atrocities in Fallujah?

The case of Eason Jordan, CNN's longtime superstar news chief, might explain the mainstream American media's silence. This is what happens when you're a mainstream American media man who dares to tell the ugly truth about Iraq. While hobnobbing with the Global Aristocracy at the World Economic Forum in Davos in January of 2005, Jordan made the mistake of telling his fellow elite what was really happening in Iraq: American forces were "out to get journalists, and some were deliberately targeting journalists."

Within two weeks, the longtime CNN honcho was out of work. His resignation came complete with a Stalin-esque confession that's chilling to read today:

"After 23 years at CNN," he wrote, "I have decided to resign in an effort to prevent CNN from being unfairly tarnished by the controversy over conflicting accounts of my recent remarks regarding the alarming number of journalists killed in Iraq. I never meant to imply U.S. forces acted with ill intent when U.S. forces accidentally killed journalists, and I apologize to anyone who thought I said or believed otherwise."

Yes, he was a wrecker and a Trotskyite, and he begged for forgiveness. Because the man was dead -- in America, losing your job like that, after bad-mouthing America, means you're as good as dead.

A number of journalists have had their careers destroyed for not following the Party Line: Peter Arnett, Ashleigh Banfield, to name two of the most prominent. Meanwhile, the editors at the New York Times and the Washington Post who pushed for war, who spread lies about WMDs and helped bring about the 500,000 deaths reported today (a figure that of course is being attacked and demonized by the same people who cheer an organization's "courage" when such figures are arrived at in Chechnya), get to keep their jobs.

You can see now why we have no Politkovskaya, as badly as we need one. If you go against the "fascist" tendency in your home country, you're targeted for death and career destruction by the government and a bloodthirsty right-wing population. Just as with Chechnya, Iraq has been made too dangerous to work in, and the American government has put a perfectly air-tight lid on information, not even allowing photographs of the coffins of dead American servicemen.

The way Putin managed to bring the media more tightly under his heel than Yeltsin managed during his tenure was by a combination of brute intimidation and career-intimidation. Media heads were pressured, critics were harassed and ruthlessly mocked. Putin also managed to tap into a growing nationalist backlash against the anti-government criticism in the liberal media, much as Republicans constantly tap the American public's rabid patriotism and hatred of the "liberal media" for criticizing or questioning right-wing, militaristic policies. All of the good Russian journalists I know got out a few years ago because it was a bad career, unless you were going to do the equivalent of FOX News, which most refused to do. American journalists, on the other hand, manage to stay working under these circumstances because they can comfort themselves with homegrown lies, such as, "Sure I'd like to print something else, but I don't want to risk it. But the difference is, at least we have the RIGHT to publish what we want about Iraq."

The lesson of Anna Politkovskaya's fearless journalism was completely lost on the West. It's up to Russians to figure out the significance of her murder to their culture and their civilization. But in a West increasingly drowning in lies, war, murder and hatred, the last thing her death should give us is the opportunity to create another enemy, another nation to hate, another regime to be changed.

Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Virtual Politics and Rogue States: the war in the orchard

If you want to understand conflict, how do you approach it? That is the gist of my research at this point, and I was admittedly ill-prepared to speak of this conflict with my interlocutors this summer. Part of the reason had to do with language skills, but most of it had to do with the fact I didn't have a vocabulary or a sense of how to address this delicate issue and the state this conflict gave birth to.

I've recently been reading this new book entitled Virtual Democracy: Faking Democracy in the Post-Soviet World. It's interesting, but the general lack of an overarching narrative or comprehensive case studies leaves much to be desired. That said, I came across a few references in the book that are worth exploring, namely the eXile, Edward Limonov, and Transnistria.

Wilson, the author, actually mentions the eXile the case of the nationalist dissident (whatever that means) Edward Limonov as a quintessential case of virtual democracy gone amok. Originally meant to be a controlled shell party, loyal but fiery (not unlike the early Zhironovsky), Limonov bucked the trend and began writing for the eXile, and also threatening to do ridiculous things like bring Johnny Rotten to Moscow for some political event. Now, in the society of the spectacle, such behavior is not acceptable, since it actively challenges Kremlin manipulation. They (powers that be in Russia, who else?) said that Limonov was attempting to import arms to invade northern Kazakhstan. That's actually pretty funny ... i mean, if you were going to invade some post-Soviet space make it a beautiful one: the Crimea, Karabakh-Nagorno, Abkhazia. At least get some Black Sea coast. Anyhow, Limonov sentenced to 5, served 2, etc.

Then i discovered this gem in the archive. Factually, I withhold judgement. But phenomenologically, I picked up on this same perspective while touring Transnistria and its two major propaganda museums, in Bender and Tiraspol. Many people used the exact same words and phrases to convey their sense of what the conflict was/is/shall remain. It was always the specter of the Romanians and Romanianization that drew out the crowds, the strikes, the general 'we know we're in the ussr and it ain't lasting long' acts of political desparation. That's not a value judgement, mind you.

Also, I spoke with a high level Moldovan army official who actually was a press liason and directed some of the ceasefire talks. The whole jug of wine thing is pretty true. He said after the guns were laid down, the booze came out, and the hatred usually evaporated after a few rounds of wine and samogon. The myth of the Romanian conquest of Transnistria, the female Baltic snipers, the friendly Cossacks helping to defend Transnistria, and the wonderful peacemaking qualities of wine all shine through in this gem, from a genuine dissident intellectual, an enemy of the Kremlin.


The War in the Orchard


By Edward Limonov ( nbp@limonka.net )



Beautiful lands of vineyards and orchards look more beautiful in war times. That I have discovered in many places: at the Balkans, during Serbian wars, then later in Abkhazia and Transdnestrie. As a matter of fact the lands of vineyards and orchards are in itselfs the very reasons for wars. Because some people want to get it, and some want to keep it. Rich, picturesque, good looking lands, mountains or otherwise located near the mighty blue rivers are hard to leave in enemy hands, so people fight. Serbs, Croats, Muslims, Abkhazes, Moldavians, Russians, Ukrainians, fight each other for vineyards and orchards. I never met one person fighting for Moscow's flatness.

Apricot orchards lay under the autumn sun on both sides of the road from Grigoriupol. Road goes near Dniestr in direction to Dubossarskaia hydro-electrical station. For dozens of kilometers we are observing vast apricot harvest lying on the ground. Because of the war nobody bothered to pick up apricots. Trenches of Transdnestrians are on the left side of the road, in shadows of first line of apricots trees, and trenches of "Rumanians," as they call army of Moldova, somewhere inside of masses of apricot trees. Odor of rotten apricots, sweet and bitter, odor of putrefaction of thousands of tonnes of apricots made on us impression to be at tropical lands.

"Jesus, it was long time ago, in 1992."

Trenches were populated by Cossacks volunteers. There was no fighting in that day, I remember some Cossacks were asleep, lying on the blankets in shadows of apricot trees, their Kalashnikovs near them, at hand's length.

There was no fighting in that day on the road from Grigoriupol, because at previous night two "Rumanians" have crawled to Transdnestrians' trenches, carrying with them two huge canisters full of good wine. They asked for armistice on behalf of their battalion commander. Commander asked for two days' armistice, so he can have his wedding. Cossacks' commander tasted wine and after that have agreed on armistice. "Rumanians have crawled back into night. You can listen to wedding orchestra, if you walk some metres into orchard," said Cossacks' commander -- "Esaul" Kolontaev.

However, after armistice have ended in two days Cossacks crawled at night to "Rumanians" trenches and dug out some antipersonnel mines protecting "Rumanians" trenches from Cossacks. Then Cossacks have dig them in, but in other places, in particular near Rumanian toilet booth.

"Why did you do such dangerous operation?" asked I.

Kolontaev smiled, "Yes, sure it is dangerous, that type of mine normally considered not removable, but we know the trick, and anyway, what kind of Cossacks we are, if we not doing all sorts of trickery?"

Cossacks' trickery have caused an explosion. One dead. Everybody were happy with their Cossacks' trick until the next morning, when young Cossack from Kuban region was shot by the sniper. It was obvious that "Rumanians" have paid back to Cossacks for their night expedition. And "Rumanians" didn't have an intention to stop. One of the trenches was fired at during that very same day, when young Cossack was shot dead. Kolontaev told me that "Rumanians" have invited Baltic-girl sniper, so-called "white stocking," and she will hunt Cossacks out of hate for Russians, and specially for Cossacks. Kolontaev ordered his men to be careful, be aware of white stocking in vicinity somewhere in apricot orchard.

I was skeptical about "white stocking." Week before I was participating in hunt for white stocking in town called Benderi. We have received an information that bleeding white-stocking have hidden herself in huge basement used previously as a wine cellar. Dozen of Transdnestrian fighters and me, we carefully invaded that basement. It was some blood drops, yes, we also found one red women shoe in one of the cellars compartments, near dirty mattress, but no Baltic-girl. Some of Transdnestrians voiced opinion that white-stocking was wounded and have rested for some time in that cellar. One young fellow expressed opinion that local girls and boys used that cellar for sexual pleasures, shoe may be forgotten by some drunken girl and blood drops could be just you know, menstruation blood... But nobody wanted to believe that simple version. People always like an attractive legends, they don't like vulgar truths. So senior of our group have reported to headquarters that white-stocking have escaped before our arrival, that presumably she was prevented of danger by some local "narodni front" hidden supporter.

Next day Kolontaev's men have fired dozens mortar shells on Rumanian positions. Rumanians suffered some causalities. They answered to Cossacks by firing their mortar shells on Cossack's position, but at night they have send their man to talk to Kolontaev. "Rumanian" said that sniper is not white-stocking, that he is a bearded man over forty. That he doesn't belong to their battalion, that he works independently. That sniper comes to nearest village everyday by bus, then he takes bicycle, rides bicycle to a front line. He is choosing his positions by himself. Sniper is not subordinated to commander of their battalion, but to military commander of the region. He is former champion in sharp-shooting,--that sniper. He doesn't converse with other soldiers. As a matter of fact he is source of disaster for their battalion. They hate his guts, because after his sniping hunt on Cossacks, Cossacks answer in mortar shelling have killed three man in battalion. Commander of Rumanian battalion have suggestion to made. We will indicate to you Cossacks,--sniper whereabouts, and you, Cossacks, will cease to go to our trenches at nights and dig out our mines.

Kolontaev thought very little. He promised to stop dirty tricks with mines. "No diggings of mines anymore," promised Kolontaev, "and you give us that fucking sniper be his mother fucked." They had agreed on plan concerning sniper and "Rumanian" left guarded by two Transdnestrians, they walk him to the front line.

Kolontaev hoped to capture sniper alive, but it happen otherwise. Bearded man in civilian clothes died of bullet wounds. Dead, he looked as a tourist, unoffensive, rather heavy build, wearing checked short and dark trousers. He even didn't look as a hunter, rather mushroom collector. I saw him. As mushroom collector, yes, expect his beautiful champions rifle.

Cossacks were disappointed that sniper proved to be not a white stocking. They looked rather unhappy. May be they dreamed to rape their enemy white-stocking, Baltic girl. Who knows, Cossacks are mysterious tribe.